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Guide Alexa Karina Vargas Marley
Welcome to Sendo-machi, Liao!
Is this your first time in Saiki? |
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Visitor Liao Jian Qiang
I once went to Onyujima on vacation, but never Sendai-machi.
I'm excited, 'cause I heard we're going to walk
around in kimonos today! |
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Stretched along the banks of the Banjo River, Saiki City's Sendo-machi was a flourishing merchant town in Edo period days. People and goods moved to and fro between its ports and faraway castle towns. Today, temples that were patronized by feudal lords, and long-running businesses such as ryokan, candy makers, sake brewers and sundries still line the streets, sustaining traces of life from bygone days.
In this volume, our guides, donned in kimonos, walk the streets of this atmospheric town hardly changed from ancient times while meeting people who observe ancient traditions. |
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| Cross-Cultural Exchange through Kimono |
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Hello! My name is Someya. I am part of the cosmetic arts organization called "Hana Temari-no-Kai." Today I have prepared for both of you two perfect kimonos. Shall we get you dressed? |
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On what type of occasions is my kimono worn? To be honest, in China there is only traditional attire for women, so today I'm seeing and wearing men's kimono for the first time. |
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The kimono you will wear is a men's casual
style kimono. All of the kimono you see here are old, from the late Meiji period
to Taisho and Showa periods, and all are made out of high-quality silk. Aged
silk has a special texture, it is the most comfortable to wear and feels the
nicest. |
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These clothes are gorgeous. It is a great honor being able to wear something like this in Japan. Could I wear a kimono around Sendo-machi anytime I like? |
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Yes. One of Hana Temari-no-Kai's events is called "Kimono de Osharaku," parties in which participants wear kimono as they walk around town. Wearing kimonos is in decline, so we started renting and dressing kimonos to get as many people in the general public as possible to learn about kimono culture and the great qualities of textiles and silk. We also hope international students and other foreigners will hold a deeper interest in the Japanese kimono, and hope they will try wearing them. |
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I've worn a kimono a couple times myself. |
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So far, we had people from many countries,
including Australia, Finland, and America, and they were all satisfied. You can
make kimono, and other parts of Japanese culture, fit your personality based
on how you coordinate them. They look great on both of you. It looks like we'll
have a fun gathering today. |
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Thank you so much.
Well then, let's get walking. |
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| Excited about wearing a kimono for the first time. |
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I met Ms. Someya for the first time in a Samba workshop. |
| Group photo before we take to the streets. |
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| Ms. Chitoe Someya, representative of the Hana Temari-no-Kai. She is also involved in international relations between Japan and China. |
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| Salon de Kei (Hana Temari-no-Kai Office) |
7-13 Sendo-machi, Saiki City
TEL: 0972-23-6528
Business Hours: 9 AM – 6PM |
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| Stories of Past Living that History and Culture Tell |
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Hello! I'm Kunihide Someya, part of the Saiki Tour Guide Group. First, let me show you the Sumiyoshi residence. This part here is the entrance or front yard of what used to be the secondary residence of the feudal lord of Saiki han, the clan that built the castle town in Saiki. It was disassembled and reconstructed here in Sendo-machi, and is a very valuable example of residential architecture from feudal times. |
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So, a long time ago a feudal lord lived in this house?!
What’s it like inside? |
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Inside you'll find the Saiki Bunko (documents collected by Takasue Mōri, the eighth-generation Saiki clan lord) and an exhibit of the remains of other Saiki clan lords. It's set up so you can learn about the history of the Saiki clan. |
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I see. It must be much more interesting to tour the town after first learning about the Saiki clan’s history. |
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Okay, let's move next-door to the Sumiyoshi Shrine. Enshrined here are two gods-the god of maritime safety, and the god of commercial success. |
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Is that because it's close to the river? |
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That's right. Long ago, there were four wharfs for ships in Sendo-machi, and merchants shipped goods not only to surrounding coastal areas but as far as the Inland Sea and even the Osaka area. Do you see the large lantern right over there? Back then, that served the purpose of lighting the Banjo River at night. |
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So years ago, this town used the Banjo River to conduct a lot of trade. I see. |
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The Sumiyoshi Residence, currently used as Sendo-machi's community hall.
A sign depicting a samurai stands in front. |
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| The Sumiyoshi Shrine summer festival throngs with people coming for an ocean swim or to see colorful dioramas and other attractions. |
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A miniature "light house" that is still lit every night. |
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| The Banjo River, once traversed by merchant ships long ago. |
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| Hamajo was the first artisan town to emerge in Saiki. Row houses that were used by tradesmen still stand. |
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| Standing in front of a long-established business with Mr. Kunihide Someya, a volunteer guide. Years ago, rows of company banners like this hung in the street in front of merchant businesses. |
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| Following Tradition – Making Koji the Ancestral Way |
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From Sumiyoshi Shrine we've passed through the streets called Hamajo-no-Tori, and Kyomachi-dori, and now we've arrived at Dainichi Temple. This temple was founded approximately 400 years ago. It was rebuilt a number of times, but this building here comes from the late Edo period and is over a hundred years old. |
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I'm interested in this, because there are no temples like this near my home in China. |
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This street that extends straight westward from Dianichi Temple used to be called Uranocho. In the year 1930, over 20 houses were lost in a great conflagration, and after the town was rebuilt its name was changed to Kyomachi. Before then, the street was lively, with many upscale restaurants and pubs and geisha walking around. |
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There are still a number of restaurants on Kyomachi-dori. |
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There aren't many old buildings on this street since all were lost in the fire of 1890, but let me introduce to you a koji maker that has been in business on this street for about 320 years. This is the proprietress, Ms. Myoho Asari. |
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Boy, you two look fabulous in those kimono!
The start of our koji-ya reaches back to the time when one of our ancestors who was working in the Inland Sea as a navy man came, along with the first generation of Dainichi Temple, to Oita as part of reinforcements in the battle of Hetsugi River (A battle that took place during the conquest of Kyushu by Toyotomi Hideyasu. It was fought in 1587 between Toyotomi's allied forces who were set to rescue the Otomo clan, and the Shimazu clan, who sought to conquer all of Kyushu Island). He eventually came to work in the navy of lord Mōri and lived in Sendo-machi. However, with the edicts of national seclusion (called "sakoku-rei") issued by the Tokugawa shogunate, travel between Japan and other countries was longer possible. Our ancestor thus changed occupations and started a koji business. |
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So Dainichi Temple, where we just went, has a deep historic connection with this store? |
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Yes. By the way, do you two know what koji is? Koji is the base ingredient with which steamed rice is fermented in order to make sake, miso, shochu and so on. The current proprietor-now of the eighth generation-makes products from scratch while adhering to the traditions and recipes of earlier generations. Let me show you something uncommon today-a room with walls made of clay, what's called a tsuchimuro. |
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It smells of koji. Are there koji bacteria in this room? |
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That's right. Koji bacteria live here in this building. Today, most places have been transformed into modern factories and there are very few tsuchimuro left, but we want to follow Japan's traditional culture and maintain this style. |
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It's very admirable of you. Once I came here to buy some amazake. Koji is so good for your body, isn't it? Next time I come I want to join a cooking class. |
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Please, anytime! Liao, please invite your friends too. |
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Okay! The people in Saiki are all so warm and welcome me as if I were family. I'll be sure to visit again. |
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| Tokozan Dainichi Temple, founded in 1608 by Risshi Shujo. |
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| This building is said to have been built 320 years ago from wood taken from one of the Saiki clan's dismantled boats. |
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| Inside the tsuchimuro is warm in winter and cool in summer. |
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| Koji cooking workshops are held four times per month (reservation and participation fee required). |
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| The koji-ya proprietress, Myoho Asari. |
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| Kojiya |
14-29 Sendo-machi, Saiki City
TEL: 0972-22-0761
Business Hours: 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM |
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Shiroyama |
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| Called Shiroyama, or "white mountain", because on this
large, 140-meter high hill used to stand Saiki Castle, built by the Saiki clan
lord Mōri Takamasa. On the road to the hilltop you can still see the remains
of the castle stone walls. Much natural wildlife also lives here, including the
Oita salamander, a protected species registered under the prefectural government.
The hill, with its rich vegetation, is widely appreciated as a meditative retreat. |
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Bungo Futamigaura |
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| Bungo Futamigaura in the Kamiura area is a coastal stretch well known for it's meoto-iwa, or wedded rocks. The massive rope that is replaced every December and connects the male and female rocks is the largest in Japan, with a length of 65 meters, diameter of 75 centimeters, and weighing in at two tons. It is also a popular spot in the prefecture for watching the sun rise, with many people traveling here on New Year's morning to take in the first rays of year. |
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| In the Totoro district of Ume you'll find a classic pastoral landscape, the kind you see in director Hayao Miyazaki's hit anime movie, "My Neighbor Totoro." With a hand-painted cat-bus sign and small stuffed Totoro dolls placed there to greet you, the location is carefully tended by local residents. |
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| Copyright(c) 2008 Oita Prefecture. All rights reserved. |
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